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deepwatersurf

Huge potential. Old maps, fisherman stories. Hours on Google earth timelines. Logistically though, for what we wanted to accomplish, nearly impossible. It wasn’t until an old Chilean surfer buddy began harvesting lobster out on the ‘island’ that it became a possibility. His name, Negro. I met him in Tahiti years ago, pearl diving deep in the Tuamotus. Real sea blood. Heart for adventure. He discovered the ‘island’ on a new venture exporting lobster to mainland Chile from Juan Fernandez. Last frontier type shit. Real deal. It’s isolation, incredible fishery, wave potential and small eclectic group of fisherman called him in. This is how we found our way to the ‘island’.... Come see what the ‘island’ had to share with us in our new short film ‘los plástico’ this Saturday, August 3rd at 7pm at @patagonia_haleiwa #losplastico

deepwatersurf

“Which board you gonna ride? “. “Hmmm. I love both of um. The orange ones super skatey and fast. Turns insane. And the Gerry.... it just..., just glides.” Magic carpet foam ball rides...flashbacks.... New wave, first time any of us have been here. The Gerry was calling. It was awake and wanted the first crack. “The Gerry” I said. 📸 @wolfofwailoaloa

deepwatersurf

“Brah, Im pretty sure your supposed to wear a base layer under the dry suit.” I semi jokingly yell over to Russo as I gumby my way into an r5 wetsuit. “Huh? Nah, no way. I wore um like this in Scotland and was all G! Can help me zip up the back?” Good luck with that I thought as I locked him in for the day. Suns out but it’s bitter cold. We got a long jet ski ride ahead of us. Hoke gets his gear together and we launch. 40 minutes in and I can’t feel my hands in my neoprene mits. Should have brought my snowboard gloves. The sea is calm in here but as we approach the last rocky point we can see ground swell splashing up the cliff face. The ski jacket and goggles help with the wind. As we round the last corner into the bay we get slammed with stiff offshores coming off the glacier. Volkswagen size chunks of ice drift out the rivermouth. A small left goes below sea level and spits. Swell’s not as big as we hoped. Must have peaked overnight. “I’m gonna get a couple before the tide kills it” I tell Russo as I get my board ready. Hands numb, I’m barely able to get my fins in. “Hey, you think it’s ok if I piss in this thing.” He yells at me as I’m paddling away. “Sure! Let me know how that goes for ya”. Tide kills it after about an hr. It’s cold. Clouds are moving in. I get back to the ski and it starts to snow. It’s a long way back. Russo looks really cold, maybe even a bit purple. “You didn’t piss in that thing did you?” I ask. “Uh, ya. I had to go bad. Lets get the fuck outta here before I freeze to death”. 📷’s @_danielrusso_ @jeffpunkrockhoke

deepwatersurf

Dinner early. Couple beers. Maybe wine instead. Some quiet stretching. Check the buoys again. They’re up but not massive. Secret feelings of relief. It’s supposed to be big though. Models showing it, satellite imagery. Everybody’s talking. Buzz is in the air. It’s coming. Relax. Take your mind off it. Small talk. Chamomile tea. Read, the goddess of sleep they say. Lights out. Get up to pee. It’s gonna be big or it’s not. Why check the buoys again. Fuck it. The buoys popped. Holy shit, it’s big. Back in bed. Deep breaths. You can hear the rumble of the surf now. Everyone else is asleep. More deep breaths. Mind wanders. Past battles. Close eyes. Happy places. Mental checklists. Equipment. Deep breaths. Back to a happy place. Alarm. Water. Doves cooing. Coffee smells. Stretch. Focus. Flow. 📷 @_danielrusso_

deepwatersurf

I’m posting the wave of @surfnavarro because I had a small ✋🏼 in the matter. Ramon and I have made our careers paddle surfing. Surfed in two @theeddieaikau events together and have traveled the world hunting barrels. I’ve known the guy since we were In our teens and he had hair 🤣. Beat him at the very first big wave contest at his home spot in 1998. Might be the only time I ever beat him but I still like to rub it in 🤣. Fiji has become a big part of both of our lives, fitting, as it’s the longest, biggest, best left hand tube on earth. We’ve been there for all of the big swells over the last ten years. Paddled into the best waves of our lives! Then in 2012 we witnessed first hand a two wave set that rocked our existence and trumped everything we had seen in surfing. The waves blew chunks of the reef into the air. The set @healeywaterops swam under. I had an honest look at one of them but they both went unridden. The picture has been on the wall of my barn ever since, haunting us day and drunken night. The most perfect two waves never ridden. I won’t let it happen again I vowed. 6 years later, a lot could have changed, life, health, many things could have got in the way but the path was clear. We were both in Chile and headed over to Fiji together. Brought the tow board, just in case.... Hours out the back waiting. Missing the paddle session. Ramon shivering. Calling @wolfofwailoaloa and @_veet_ on the radio to see if any 2012 waves had come through (Vinaka for everything boys!). Nothing yet. Then like a gift from Neptune himself the ocean rose and told me to pin it and the rest was history. Now we got the picture on the wall and I can smile contently during the day and howl on drunken nights. So, whether we win an award tonight or not, we already won. Thanks Ramon for inspiring me and thanks @patagonia for helping make our dreams become realities 🤙, oh and my wife for being the most understanding amazing women on earth! Imagine having to put up with me 🤣 ! 📷 @_danielrusso_

deepwatersurf

You may have seen a photo at Pipeline by @_danielrusso_ on 1/23/19. Back lit, mesmerizing. The glittering essence of Pipeline. Ice blue. You can almost smell the ocean spray. An INSERT me here PLEASE type of photo. Daniel and I spent the morning surfing an outer reef off of the jetski and stopped at Pipeline on the way home to the harbor in hopes the winds would go back offshore. Just a handful of guys out @kellyslater being one of them. It had the size and the feel but just wasn’t quite there. I jumped in with the hopes it would turn on. It did, and so did the crowd. Like the droves of zombies climbing over the wall in the movie World War Z , surfers started pouring out of the houses and into the lineup. Trying to position myself just outside the main pack but away from any other surfers in hopes I may get launched from the second reef into a first reef chasm. Days before the swell, I visualized the moment. The wave. The low crouch and the spit. Don’t let it blow you off the board. The take off wasn’t how I envisioned it. Such is Life. Sean Lopez and I were scratching to the north trying to avoid the wall of whitewater mowing guys down from the west. The first wave went by with a surfer but the second one was breaking wider and had caught everyone sitting further outside. As we scratched up the wave sideways, whitewater parading down the point, I looked down towards Pupukea and could see the stretch of the wave and that magic bend. Something inside said go. I quickly glanced at Sean and could tell he was a hair too deep. My position allowed me to catch the wave sideways as I was paddling up it, having to point the board not to get blown off the wave but catch enough whitewater to project me down the face. Regroup body... mind... Bottom turn, set the line, get low and let it ride... here’s Pete Hodgson’s ( @flipperhawaii) angle of the same wave from down the beach. Its not as warm and fuzzy as Russo’s. Reminding us all how deep of a role perspective can play in life. 🙏 Pipeline. #ohulalihakea @patagonia_surf

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The objective was an outer reef hrs away. Two ferry rides and an overnight drive in Kins van. His wife Hiromi will log hrs on the wheel. They trade off. Aron and I sleep in the back. It’s the only way to chase Typhoons. Airports can suddenly close, gear can be lost. Long hrs on the pavement adjusting destinations to any slight wind change or storm movements. That’s the beauty and challenge of Japan, an island nation with endless setups and wind aspects. It’s a calculated dance drawn from years of experience and dedication. It’s hard work. Even then, forecasts aren’t 100%. Kin gets skunked. Coordinating with the local boss at each spot sometimes proves to be more challenging then scoring the waves themselves. Gifts and secret meetings the days before. A ceremony of sort. All of it a part of Kins wave chasing matrix developed over a lifetime. This particular adventure we got to experience that dreamy perfection only Mother Nature can offer. Mountain rains flow to the coast, life water, carving symmetry through black gravel. Perfect tubes hiss underwater and spit. Sun. The typhoon plays nice for days, far offshore. Swell lines, groomed beyond the horizon. Udon. The Outer reef is huge, the wind keeps us on our toes.

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Kinsan ( @naoyakimoto) doesn’t miss a typhoon nor does he miss the shot. He’s a surf photog ninja that’s been in the game for over 30 years. I occasionally get the invite when massive typhoons track towards his coastline. Over the years, I’ve hit most of the known big wave spots in Japan but this was an area still on my list. All the places I’ve gotten to go to have been magical. Each region or spot has its own unique landscape, regional cuisine and main surf boss who kin will meet up with before to ask permission for us to surf. This usually requires an offering of some sort. More of a gesture and show of respect. Old school. Something we’ve lost culturally in many parts of the world. @Healeywaterops and @kanoazimmerman happened to be down there on a spear fishing adventure so we all met up and waited for the waves to hit. The swell was massive. We gave the right hander a go with the local crew but couldn’t take our eyes off of another wave breaking further out. A barreling left. We came in and drove to a closer entrance but got barred by the fire department. We spent the rest of the afternoon watching the wave from the cliff, beers, dinner, more beers and bowling in kimonos. 🙏 🇯🇵

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Mountain surfing deep in the Monashees with the one and only Greg Harms ( @thirdedgeheli) and @scottnewsomeeaglepass. 📸 @brad.cosgrove

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Pipeline. Surfer Magazine 1984 shot by Don King. @donkingfilms For me, the best picture is the picture that inspires you the most. I had this shot on my wall as a kid. I didn’t know Chappy, I was only 7 when this went to print but it was so amazingly beautiful and terrifying at the same time. Shocking. The size of the barrel! The lip detonating on the shallow reef, the boils and Chappy’s crazy low ninja tube stance. I never forgot this image and along with countless other wonderful captures, I was inspired to follow my dream of surfing the ‘Pipeline’ one day.

deepwatersurf

Another swell cycle comes to an end. Different then storms in the mountains, the ones we want are born far away and never touch us. Sending us groomed bands of energy finely tuned by local winds, or not. Sun. Rain. Out of our hands. Once, I skied through a storm in Japan until blue and chased it back to Pipeline. West swell. Long period corduroy for days. As the Storms come and go our bodies adjust to these cycles and find their own rhythm. Pause for a second to think about all the storms, mountain, sea, life, that have guided you to this moment. 🙏 📷 DWS

deepwatersurf

So I was up in Hood River, Oregon for a Kiteboard for cancer event. A fundraiser to help cancer survivors do rad things. @gerrylopezsurfboards has been living up in Oregon for a while now carving huge mountain lines and recently, he picked up kite surfing. After the event we kited to a place they call the ‘Hatchery’ where there are all these perfectly groomed standing waves. For hours we zoomed back and forth laying down big turns and trying to boost big airs. The whole time cracking up laughing. When we got in I asked him what he liked about kite surfing. He didn’t give me the answer I was expecting, instead he just simply said ‘I think I just like feeling like a kook again’. That resonated to me. Maybe that’s the ‘fountain of youth’? Anyway, that’s why I picked up foiling, to feel like a ‘kook’ again. It’s opened up doors I previously thought I could never open. So, cheers Gerry, for continuing to inspire and be the ninja you are. 📷 @mattp.aul @deheeckeren #sundaystories

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One of my lifetime highlight moments that happened to be in 2018. Below is an excerpt from ‘Tales from the third ledge , by Sean Doherty. The full story in Bio.... “I was hoping it would happen,” he said, “but I was also hoping it wouldn’t happen.” Kohl had just arrived to Chile, and not only did he have the @b.w.r.a.g course scheduled, but he also had his wife and 14-month-old baby with him. “We were checking it on every update, looking for everything wrong we could find with it, nitpicking it to death looking for anything for it not to happen because we had this plan, but in the end we couldn’t find anything wrong with it. And there were two swells. There was the Friday swell, and there was an even bigger swell on Sunday.” In the end, @gerglong “took one for the team”, running the course himself and cutting Kohl and Ramón free. The pair have chased swells together for years; Ramón had been there in Fiji six years ago and caught one of the best waves of his life, so he needed little encouragement to return. Kohl’s boards were back home in Hawai’i and he arranged for Russo to bring them down to Fiji, but while packing Ramón’s boards they discussed whether or not to take Ramón’s tow-in board. “It’s all been about paddling for so long now,” says Kohl, “but we said, “Look, if the conditions are big and weird let’s just bring the tow board because I don’t want one of those waves to go unridden again. I couldn’t stand to see another picture of us paddling over one of those again. It had been killing me for years”.... read the full story in the link in bio, it’s worth it 😉. 📷 @_danielrusso_ @tomservaisjr Big Vinaka to @wolfofwailoaloa @_veet_ and the rest of the Fiji crew. R70 🤟🏻 make this your best year yet :)

deepwatersurf

The wind guru forecast is pretty spot on in Chile. Follow the guru and chances are pretty high you’ll score. One thing that’s hard to predict is fog. Ramon and I dissected the forecast and compared the numbers to previous swells. The slab mission isnt easy. Nor is the wave perfect. Big wild oceanic seamount. Ramon blew his knee out on his first stab at it. This would be our third trip. Long drive south on bumpy dirt roads with jetskis in tow. Sketchy launch with deep black sand, unmarked rocks and the wave itself is far offshore. Mission. Recipe was there though, high feet, short interval and no wind. We load up and head south. Fog. It’s thick. We can hear the surf pounding. We can’t see it though. Swells here. No wind. Days are short in Chile this time of year. We talk to the local fisherman and they say it might clear. More coffee, some pan amasado. We suit up and wait. Check and recheck our gear. 11 am now. Can’t see. Ramon and the boys pass around the mate. About 1230 the fog starts to lift a bit. The haze turns golden and we can see the ocean. Fog to the north and south but it’s clearing where we are. We launch the skis and jam. Not knowing how long we have. We get lost on the way because the light house to the north is still hiding in the fog. We follow the sound. It clears a bit more and we find the wave. Its in its own sunny bubble. Space vortex. We find out later it’s the only sunny spot on the coast. The fog never lifted from punta de lobos that day. We catch three or four waves each and it starts to creep back in. We quickly make our way back to our launching spot through the garden of rock islands and fly the skis up the beach before we get lost. We get some help pulling them the rest of the way and it’s over. Fog is back and it’s thick. Can’t see the ocean. We crack some beers and laugh. 📷’s @deheeckeren @fariasmoreno

deepwatersurf

It’s mid winter 2007. Nate Fletcher, myself and a few friends are out at Phantoms. I think Dusty was out. It’s one of those crisp blue mornings with no wind. Suns coming up over Kahuku and the mist is thick in the air from all the salt spray. So thick you can feel and taste it. Waves are solid 15-18 and we are on the left. After a few waves each we are sitting out the back and Nate says lets go to Mavericks tonight. I’d never been. Didn’t even have a wetsuit. We catch the red eye with Hank. Drive straight to Santa Cruz to pick up some boards from Stretch. Meet up with tazzy at his house. He’s got these old vhs powerlines tapes of Mavs playing and loud punk rock music. He says he’s coming with us but last minute goes to Ghost trees. Hank, Nate and I head north through the thickest fog I’ve ever seen. The parking lot is full of ski trailers and some pretty interesting characters. We are the only ones with paddle boards. We hear it’s massive. Like really massive. Only reason people don’t completely write us off is cuz it’s Nate. Not a day to paddle is the vibe. We lose my board on the way out. Falls off the ski. Find it but fog is so thick I never see the land. We get to the lineup and I here the channel buoy for the first time. Eerie as fuck. First wave I see is Kealii, whipped in by Garret. He flies off the bottom and hooks into a gigantic cartoonish bowl. Holy shit. It’s breaking waaaaay out side. Outer outer reef. Looks like a huge point break starting way out In the fog. Next I see flea come from outside and pull in from way behind the bowl and go up over the falls. Holy fuck. It’s cold. We are sitting in the channel on our paddle boards. Pete Mel is out whipping somebody. I look at Nate and shrug. It’s dark and grey but all of a sudden the sun starts to break through. Not blue but a white and warm hazy sunset time light. We drift into the lineup and a wave comes right to me and the next one comes right to Nate. Wow. Smiling in the channel we give each other a hug and head straight to the opl, a pistop in Santa Cruz and an all night drive to Todos with Malibu Mike, Gmac and Kealii. But that’s another story.. 📷 @hankfoto

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@captain_freed throwin’ caution to the wind as he’s done since we were little kids. How old are we now? 🤣. Outer Log Cabins 11/26/18 📷 @_danielrusso_

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The “what” and the “how” may have grown from our 2011 humble beginnings in a barn with just a few close friends trying to learn some CPR basics. But the “WHY” has never changed. It’s all about the “why.” Why we wake up in the morning. Why we throw ourselves over the ledge of a 20 footer. Why @b.w.r.a.g ? Safety is not an accident, it’s not a coincidence — it’s purposefully created in our lineups. Thanks to Brian Keaulana’s High Surf Risk Management and mentorship from the @hawaiianlifeguardassociation our “why” is backed by techniques that will help bring each other home—allowing us to enjoy our sport, our families, our lives another day. Coming up @turtlebayresort November 30 - December 2 is BWRAG’s annual Hawaii Safety Summit. Register at www.bwrag.com 📷 @zoard #inlovingmemoryofsionmilosky

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Hawaiian winter dayz.. we on. #thelaand

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Halfmoon Bay, California is home to some of the largest 🎃’s in the World, Waves and the best damn apres surf Bar on the planet!. The @oldprincetonlanding and by the way, who the fuck is gonna finally pack that left on a legit 20 footer and come out?! 🐘 📸 @photomurray

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“The sea is emotion incarnate. It loves, hates, and weeps. It defies all attempts to capture it with words and rejects all shackles. No matter what you say about it, there is always that which you can’t.” —Christopher Paolini, Eragon. - A moment of solitude and complete awe during the infamous “Code Red” swell on Rapa Nui. 8/27/2011 📷 @fariasmoreno

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Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi describes flow as "being completely involved in an activity for its own sake. The ego falls away. Time flies. Every action, movement, and thought follows inevitably from the previous one, like playing jazz. Your whole being is involved, and you're using your skills to the utmost." ⚡️ - 📷 @fred_pompermayer

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Challenge yourself to travel, meet new people and share life changing ideas, foster relationships near and far, be stewards of aloha and create a world where our children can do the same. This handshake set in motion a radical chain of events that lead exactly to where I am today...... along with one hell of a good story 🤣. 📷 @mattp.aul

deepwatersurf

A rocking chair and a nice bourbon for this one. It’s 1998. I’m a dirt bag traveler. Just discover Chile vía a supposed to be short turned 7 month stint on Rapa Nui (Easter Island) and got led to this place called Punta De Lobos. There is a huge swell and they are having a super roots big wave event. Turns out the organizer is a guy I met on Rapa Nui, Matias Lopez. He asks if I want to surf in it. I asked how much. He said 20$. I didn’t have it. He said if u win any money just pay me back. I had this 8’0 Ken Bradshaw. I for sure had the biggest board at the time. Ramon, Diego Medina and Merrelo were younger then me and had never ridden a board that big. I ended up winning and spent the 500$ winnings minus 20$ at the disco that night in Picchilemu. That was kinda the beginning of a long run of crazy adventures in this beautiful country with amazing people. I’ve had the privilege of watching their surf culture become what it is today and Ramon’s and my surf career kind of grew together. Took him out to Waimea for the first time and we have surfed in two Eddies since. Many more great memories around the world and now fast forward 20 fucking years and here we are at the 20th anniversary of the Ceremonial (Punta de Lobos big wave event). I was honored to be invited to come celebrate this magical event that has helped so many Chilean Surfers actually surf for a living. To add to that, the point itself, because of the hard work of so many like minded people has been saved from any further development and has been named a world surf heritage site. It’s been an epic adventure and I’m happy to celebrate the moment with all of you. The waves, the place and most of all the people that make this country so special. 🍻🇨🇱. 📷’s @fariasmoreno @deheeckeren

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You ever have a wet dream that lasted all day long ? 🍑💦 🌴🤣 📷 @richard_kotch

deepwatersurf

Imagine this scenario. It’s the eve of potential disaster. There is a category five hurricane (157mph + winds) within a few hundred miles of the islands and it’s headed right at you. You’ve done what you can to prepare your home and belongings, headed to the south side to find some waves (6-8 ft and pumping, surfers will always be surfers) and now you’re having a cocktail watching this cracker of a sunset. That’s when you realize you have zero control over the outcome of the storm and start to reflect on the things in life you do have control over. One thought came up more than all others, maybe I was influenced by how our community was bonding and the interactions happening around me as people prepared but I couldn’t shake the one thought, we do have 100% control over ‘how we treat other people’. I had another cocktail and pondered it a bit more. Fast forward two days and Hurricane Lane has fallen apart and limped off into the sunset. Some major flooding on parts of the islands but luckily her winds never touched shore. We may not have seen her full impact but in a strange way I think we all did. #deepthoughts 🤣

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Do we spend our lives seeking adventure, or does adventure seek us? 🤔 One thing I have learned, you gotta be present to find out. 📷’s by the very talented adventure capturer 🍭 @andrew_miller #horizonliners

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‘The storms moving in and it’s about a 13 hr crossing tonight, we best get going now’ the captain barked in some heavily sea battered Chilean Spanish. As I processed the new information I looked around at the 7 of us, the amount of alcohol on board, the 5 tiny berths in the one small cold cabin below and thought about what lay ahead. 📷 DWS

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I’ve realized that I have spent most of my life hunting for small magical moments that take me away from every other thought and place. Don’t get me wrong, this isn’t escaping from reality, I have a great life, it’s just the search for the full presence of mind and body which is so incredibly difficult to attain. If your following my page then you are most likely doing the same. The moment has to be so overwhelming (this part is relative to your experience) that for those split seconds there are no other thoughts but the subconscious engagement in the act. Some can reach this special place through meditation, art, dance, sports, etc.. some with the help of mind altering substances. Or even combinations of the above. But what is it about this mind state that is so appealing? Is it a selfish pursuit or is it so intoxicating that without it we begin to age? Could this place be our ‘fountain of youth’? You ever see the smile on somebody’s face after sticking an impossible drop at Teahupoo or riding over the foamball at Cloudbreak? #deepthoughts 🤣 📸 Greg Harms

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Necesito del mar porque me enseña: no sé si aprendo música o conciencia: no sé si es ola sola o ser profundo o sólo ronca voz o deslumbrante suposición de peces y navios. El hecho es que hasta cuando estoy dormido de algún modo magnético circulo en la universidad del oleaje. No son sólo las conchas trituradas como si algún planeta tembloroso participara paulatina muerte, no, del fragmento reconstruyo el día, de una racha de sal la estalactita y de una cucharada el dios inmenso. Lo que antes me enseñó lo guardo! Es aire, incesante viento, agua y arena. Parece poco para el hombre joven que aquí llegó a vivir con sus incendios, y sin embargo el pulso que subía y bajaba a su abismo, el frío del azul que crepitaba, el desmoronamiento de la estrella, el tierno desplegarse de la ola despilfarrando nieve con la espuma, el poder quieto, allí, determinado como un trono de piedra en lo profundo, substituyó el recinto en que crecían tristeza terca, amontonando olvido, y cambió bruscamente mi existencia: di mi adhesión al puro movimiento. El Mar - Pablo Neruda. 📸 @deheeckeren @fariasmoreno

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“We need the tonic of wildness...At the same time that we are earnest to explore and learn all things, we require that all things be mysterious and unexplorable, that land and sea be indefinitely wild, unsurveyed and unfathomed by us because unfathomable. We can never have enough of nature.” Henry David Thoreau 📸 @gonzolenz

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“Surfers are the ‘throw-aheads’ of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists and they are leading the way to where man ultimately wants to be. The act of the ride is the epitome of ‘be here now’, and the tube ride is the most acute form of that. Which is: your future is right ahead of you, the past is exploding behind you, your wake is disappearing, your footprints are washed from the sand. It’s a non-productive, non-depletive act that’s done purely for the value of the dance itself. And that is the destiny of man” - Timothy Leary 📸 @_danielrusso_

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Surfing: The eternal fountain of youth. Lucky us! 🙏 📷 @deheeckeren #internationalsurfingday

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Certain waves have stories. On June 8th 2012 this set rolled through the lineup. Up to that point most of us had never seen anything like it at Cloudbreak or anywhere else for that matter. I’m sure @jonroseman and his buddies witnessed waves like it over the years but this was the first time we all saw it. We were coming off of a bomber swell with perfect conditions the year before and you could feel the energy amongst the surfers and spectators. There were enough waves for everyone that day and confidence was building. Healy and I were the deepest at that moment. I remember the horizon go dark and the first one roll under us. I was about ten meters further out then him and it seemed like I was in the perfect spot for the second one. I turned, put my head down and started paddling as hard as I could. I heard twiggy yell in the distance and that gave me extra confidence. The wave started to lift me and for a second I actually thought I was rolling into the wave. I felt the lift and the wind in my face and then it just rolled out from under me. After looking at the photos and video I could see from where I was I really had no chance. It broke so far underneath me that I would have had to be taking off upside down a la @laurietowner where Healy was paddling up the wave. Those waves started breaking further up on a different section of reef and by the time they reached the ‘normal’ lineup they were thick and menacing with no entry. I’ve looked at pictures and videos of that wave for 6 years and wondered how you could have paddled into it. Maybe way up the reef if the ocean was oil smooth and you could match the speed of the wave but by then they tear off around the bend so quick it seems like you would just get smoked. Any ideas how to ride one? ;). 📷 @fred_pompermayer

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There’s this lonely stretch of reef off the Pacific Northwest coast that a handful of locals charge when it awakes. It’s cold, it’s big and you get the feeling your at the bottom of the food chain. It’s not for everyone. But it sure is beautiful when it all comes together. 📷 @deheeckeren

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The Great Pacific Wave Pool. 📷 @fariasmoreno

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Meanwhile, far far away on a cold South Pacific Island....☠️

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Spring 🌴 📷’s @_danielrusso_

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Nick Christensen. South Pacific. 🥥🌴 📷 @richard_kotch

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Right place, rrright time with the @wolfofwailoaloa🍍

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Joint Perspective. 📷 @_danielrusso_

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In this wasteland, I am the one who runs from both the living and the dead. A man reduced to a single instinct, survive. As the world fell, each of us in our own way was broken. It was hard to know who was more crazy, me or everyone else. - Mad Max