Various images from the past few weeks. There are never enough words to describe the people and places you love. Thank you #SouthAfrica for another great year full of incredible memories. A giant thanks and hug to @bk_woz_here And @angie_kerzner for opening your doors to me once again. I missed you guys and the kids though. Thank you to #SMGAuto and @mccarthy_pat for taking care of my transport for those few weeks I was in the country! That was a huge perk having such a nice car. It made my trip that much nicer. @themackays and family...always great to see you and already looking forward to the next trip back. @badboyryry_ @, @tallteef and @jackbarripp thanks to you all for the photo support after each competition day. Stoked on that. @gumboot.camera thanks for that dinner. Gonna have to have two of those next year. Also, @surfersnotstreetchildren is the coolest organization ever. Love to all of you who make it happen and who are involved in the project or benefit from its existence. I have huge respect for all of you and thanks for the support and messages. Let’s continue making this bigger and better and improving these kids’ (and our) lives!
Happy Birthday, my love. Some of our finest (and not so finest 😂) moments! So many memories. Hope you have a beautiful day. See you soon.
50 years ago yesterday we went to the moon (didn’t we?) but i think the better option was J-Bay.
Nothing better than the big, open walls of #JBay. Fun day today and hoping for some more solid waves this week. Spent the afternoon talking with the girls and crew with @surfersnotstreetchildren, #BrittMerrick, and lots of surf fans. I’ve also been shell hunting and meditating. All these things go together very cohesively at J-Bay. 🙂
Thank you, Saquarema/Brazil. Coming here I didn’t know what to expect but the fanfare and surf and hospitality has been next level from everyone. I wish there was another of me to have more time for everyone. Thanks to @r_arona for looking after me and my crew all week. Thanks to @alekparker for filming it all and @taylorsteele for being my new caddy! A huge thanks to @badboyryry_ for always getting all of us surfers clips and pics from the days. Muito obrigado to the local crew at Barrinha ( @raonimonteirooficial, #LeoNeves, etc) for letting me snag a few Off-the-wall like barrels before the event honed in on the spot. That’s an intense crowd and for good reason...the waves were seriously ridiculous! Obrigado #MarcoPolo for the art display representing important moments in my career. Wow! Amazing someone would document my history ins such a way! 🙏🏽 @lucianohuck thanks for the helicopter ride in from the airport. What a way to arrive into Rio! Nice job @filipetoledo on getting me yesterday. That was a fun heat. I’m gonna smash you next time! Haha. Anyway, hope everyone is enjoying the event and although not the best result I really enjoyed the competition which is what it’s all about. Word up. 🤟🏽
Had an epic trip to Bali this year. Thank you Ibu and @komanekaresorts 🙏 for an awesome place to stay near Keramas with great food, fun waves, and warm hospitality. My breakfasts were on point and the massages, pool, and property as a whole was awesome. Also, a huge thanks for @rizaltandjung, @marlon.gerber, @varuntandjung, @bronson_meydi, @elihanneman and @bobhurley for some super fun freesurfs around the island. Missing the warm water and fun waves already. The travel never seems to end. Good and bad problem I guess...mostly good. :)
Use the offshores to your benefit.
Fun week in #WA. Thanks to everyone who supported all of us surfers this week in this beautiful part of the world. I didn’t quite find the magic this week but some moments along the way and enjoyed myself a ton. Congrats to @caioibelli for taking out our heat this morning and good luck to the remaining competitors. I hope #TheBox turns it back on for the remainder. Looking forward to being back here again someday soon. Photos @_jackbarripp_ and @badboyryry_ PS... @_max.hansen thanks for letting me beat you and your buddy armwrestling today so I didn’t have to give you my board! Hope the hat and leash make up for a sore arm! 😬😆
Sunny...I love you, brother. I just can’t even fathom you not here. We’ve got so much more living to do before we are done. There’s been hard times but there have been so many good ones, too. Just praying you wake up and we get more of you. (Sorry for my big head...it’s the last photo Sunny and I took together a couple months ago). 🙏🏽 #MyOtherBrother
Some inspiration going into #TheMorningOfTheFinals at #RipCurlProBellsBeach tomorrow. Thanks for all the support. Good luck to everyone still going. Gonna have to step it up to match the levels guys are laying down but let’s hope for some great waves and conditions overnight. Hope you all get a chance to tune in live at WorldSurfLeague.com or on @wsl app. This is somewhere around my 25th or 26th year competing here. I think I may have only missed one or two years since 1992. Happy to be joining this list of names on finals day. 🤙🏽✌🏽👊🏽🏄🏾🔪
‘Hey Bill...the earth is flat.’ April ‘18
Thanks to everyone who came out to #AintThatSwell with the @theswellian and @vaughandeadly last night at the Torquay Bowls Club. @markocchilupo and @bradgerlach showed up and we had a swell time talking absolute trash about each other. But in all seriousness, it was a blast to dive into old times and celebrate #BellsBeach for the #RipCurlPro. Hope to see everyone down there this Easter at the event. And apologies as I’ve forgotten all of your handles everyone in the crowd gave me to tag today! Thanks for the group shot.
I was fortunate enough to be invited to NZ this week for a member/guest tourney at #taraitigolfclub. What a beautiful part of the world and even more reason to find myself, like everyone, in shock the past two days over the tragedy in #Christchurch. My heart goes out to everyone affected by this horrible, despicable act. With all the beauty on this planet, how do people get so brainwashed and disheartened into thinking that is the answer for them? These people senselessly murdered posed no threat to this man. I hope the community bonds together to comfort each other through this awful event. 🙏🏽
I’m proud and happy to announce @outerknown_womens will be dropping March 12th. We’ve spent over 3 years now refining our process, getting our men’s line in order and understanding what women wanted from the feedback on style and design. Did you know @outerknown was the first and only brand ever to be #FairLaborAssociation certified prior to ever selling a single item of clothing? Another thing we are very proud of is that this women’s line is made up of 100% preferred fibers meaning recycled, regenerated or organically produced fibers • • • To celebrate the launch of @Outerknown_Womens on March 12th, @Outerknown is gifting their entire debut line (17 styles totaling over $2K in retail value) to one lucky winner. Plus two runner-ups will win Outerknown gift cards ($500 and $250) to be used at Outerknown.com. Enter at the link in my bio. Contest is for US residents only and ends March 11th 11:59PM PST. Stylishly sustainable clothing. #OuterknownWomensGiveaway
@theohanafest coming up September 27-29. Tickets on sale FRIDAY AT 10AM at ohanafest.com! (Apologies for misinform before). #EddieVedder, @thestrokes, @incubusofficial, #RedHotChiliPeppers, @glenhansard, @donavon_frankenreiter, @lukasnelsonofficial and @promiseoftherealofficial, and a bunch more. See you there!
Happy Valentine’s Day, my love. So many trips and adventures over the years (but I need help arranging and accessing my pics!). And there’s no way to talk about us without our third-wheel child in the picture, @actionthedog. A few throwbacks of all of us thrown (even from before Action had a name and found herself). Hope everyone is having a great day!
22 years ago today Chesser checked out. I remember that day like it was yesterday but it feels like it was in another lifetime. Some people leave a mark that you never quite totally process. Cheese and Brock were two of those guys, probably the most legendary friends our crew will ever have known when all is said and done.
At #SurfRanch for my 47th with some friends with @toddglaser getting barreled in the background right now! • • @outerknown is doing a secret sale for my bday for 20% off with the code BDAY. 20% of the sales from today go to @oceanconservancy. I love the work they do and we have a history of working with them at Outerknown. So for my birthday, I’d love to raise some extra funds for them and give another day of discounts to our customers. • • And a huge thanks for the support everyone’s been showing Outerknown love as of late. It’s proof that people understand our goals and respect the mission of using environmentally friendly textiles and fair trade production facilities in our supply chain. We were the first ever brand to be Fair Trade Labor certified before selling a single item of clothing and the quickest brand to ever do it through official channels. Help get the word out to understand where your clothes come from and who makes them. Anyway...enough of my rant. Enjoy your (my?) day! 😀 ✌🏽🏄🏽♂️
Winter warehouse sale up thru midnight tonight PST. It’s been freezing lately all over the states and our beanies, jackets, sweats, and tons of warm clothes are all up to 70% off. Tomorrow is my 47th birthday and we’re gonna have some sort of surprise for that as well. Check it out on @outerknown link in profile or outerknown.com. And thanks for all the great messages I’ve received this week about the brand and clothes! ✌🏽👌🏽
Spent last night talking story with these guys... @thomasvictorcarroll and #DaneKealoha. Andy’s always hanging around at my place, too. Good to see Dane really itching to surf and ready for action once he gets his neck sorted out. Tom’s a bionic man with a new knee and ready for whatever the ocean throws at him. Dane was laughing at how they used to call Tom ‘Tommy Gun’ and Tom and I were recounting all our Dane stories from years ago! Check the video clip, too. Dane’s story needs to be told and I think we’re gonna start working on that. I met these guys both in 1982 when I was 10 years old and still have their autographs from that day. If you’ve got a Dane or Tom story, please leave it below. 👇🏽
Is this the best Pipeline shot of all time? Kohl Christensen ( @deepwatersurf) two nights ago on his last wave of the day, on the best day of the year, on his final ride before the birth of his second daughter...a roll-in from Second Reef on an 8’6” Brewer. This picture sums up why we surf. And nobody seems to be more in tune with the ocean than Kohl. Oh, and his best friend got the shot from a jet ski in the channel. 🤷🏽♂️ @_danielrusso_ you should make some limited edition prints of this one. 📷 🎞 🏄🏽♂️
It’s taken me a couple days to even want to think about it. Chris Brown and I were nearly inseparable as teenagers. This guy was just such an excited, happy light in my childhood. He introduced me to #AlMerrick and @cisurfboards. My brother and I stayed with Chris and his family on the Mesa in SB a couple summers and traveled to Mexico, Australia, England, Puerto Rico, Hawaii, and beyond with Chris and his dad, Dave. We used to sit in his house and just goof off all day listening to his brother play every heavy metal song we knew on his guitar. The day I got my first Al shape when I was 16, Chris and I drove back and forth twice in the same day to Lompoc to surf cause SB had no waves. We’d listen to GnR in his brown truck. He used to mess with #JoshBradury when Josh would follow us in his car by waiting at a turn signal, pretending his car had something wrong with it, even getting out to check the engine, until the light was very yellow and then jump in and take off, leaving Josh stuck for another light! Haha. Chris and I shaped a board together in his parent’s backyard, each shaping a rail. Being from the east coast and riding @matt_kechele shapes, I had thick, rounded rails while Chris had been schooled on the finer, precision rails that worked well at Rincon. When we finally felt the board we laughed and decided we had to have Chris reshape mine down to feel like his rail. He actually won a #PSAA event on that board cause Al was gone for a month somewhere and he had broken his favorite board. I felt a huge sense of pride that he had competed on that thing. Chris, Sean, and I made ourselves wooden boards to ride the ice plant down the Mesa in front of his house. I guess the waves were so flat all summer we had no better ideas. We would skate down the steep hills to the Channel Islands shop to pass time when there was nothing else to do. It was so exciting being from the east coast, knowing Chris, and then getting to know the Channel Islands family. It was truly life changing for me. Chris surfed like Tom Curren ( @curfuffle). You would see the lineage in every wave he rode and being around that style as a kid was so inspiring.... #YeahChris!
@kai_lenny at Jaws the other day got me like 😳🙈 Proof that all that cross sports training from windsurfing to kiting is working out. The crazy part is you can’t even see any track behind from where he took off. It reminds me of the Olympic Ski Jump, balancing in the offshore wind. Maybe you should try that next, Kai. 🤷🏽♂️ 📷 @fred_pompermayer
Name your favorite place. Pipeline’s got my vote.
#MomentumGeneration Documentary on HBO tonight at 10pm. ✌🏽
My daughter ( @taylrsltr) is having her Dreamscapes art show tomorrow from 4-8pm in Haleiwa at Wyland Galleries. Drop by and check it out if you’re in the area. 🌈✌🏽🌊
The last 2 days of surfing has been a serious overload! @stephaniegilmore wins her 7th world title at Honolua Bay, @kealakennelly wins the women’s event at Peahi in the biggest Jaws in years before it gets even bigger and called off for the men’s after one heat only to then watch @kai_lenny, @tysimpsonkane, and one or two others tow perfect 60’ barrels while a few guys like @live.fast.die.old paddled just a couple waves. And then today they finished the men at Jaws with @billykemper narrowly edging @kai_lenny out for his third win in 4 years (and a 2nd last year), and @rissmoore10 takes out the finish of the final women’s event of the year at absolutely perfect surf at Honolua over @maliamanuel in the final. I’m tired just from watching. Glad everyone is safe. There was some serious carnage going down. If you haven’t watched it I hope you find a replay. I’ll find a link and put in my bio. Congrats to all and thanks for the show(s)! Maybe Sunset will be back on tomorrow. Crazy week. What was your favorite part of all the action?#AreYouNotEntertained?!
Nice first day home in Florida.
It’s hard to believe I’m writing this but Rest In Peace my friend. • #ChrisJensen was my best friend on this earth at one point in time, always there through good times and bad to pick up the phone, go for a surf, play some golf, ride carve boards. This kind soul brought me so many funny, happy memories and introduced me to lots of people who’ve become lifelong friends. • We’ll keep your memory alive and you can live on with us. I can’t grasp that you’re gone. Thank you, buddy. I miss you so much already. It hasn’t even sunken in yet. Not sure when it will be real for me/us...🙏🏽🏄🏽♂️🏌🏽♂️🏂🏝
@a_giraffe_named_stanley is safe but so many friends have already lost homes in Malibu. Sad day in Cali. Hope they can get it under control soon.
A lifetime of memories with my crew. Thanks to everyone for telling and enjoying our story.
Floridians...are you voting today? Based on which issues as a priority? The future is for the young’ns but in my home state, 75+ year olds outvote the youth 10-to-1. I’d love to see this ballot decided by who’s going to protect the environment first and foremost. It ain’t gonna clean itself and there’s no second planet...yet. In less than two decades from now, there is expected to be a greater volume of garbage in the ocean than fish life. We need to act now and there is no penalty for being overly cautious about our impacts. Florida, in particular, has suffered at the hands of business and political interests ahead of our natural resources...our main attraction. This past Summer and into the Fall, we experienced the worst fish die-offs and algal blooms in memory. Not trying to preach to anyone but please consider who has made these topics a priority when you cast your ballot. We are likely close to a tipping point at this time in history. ✌🏽
We’ll never forget that day, where we were, how we felt. Andy left such an indelible mark on the world. If you’ve got a good Andy Irons story, please share it below. • • • When I found out Andy had passed, I was with a few friends on a beach in Puerto Rico playing with a homeless dog. My manager had the dog rescued and brought to CA where it was adopted by an Orange County surfing family (@griffin_foy). We soon found out she was pregnant, and she gave birth to a healthy litter. There’s a metaphor in there somewhere. Andy and I had some otherworldly connections but I know he had that with a lot of people, sometimes in misunderstood ways. He was a giant personality and presence that we all can’t help but feel the void of. 🙏🏽🤙🏽
Getting creepy with @joerogan last night talking things that eat you, injuries, counting calories, float tanks, #DonTheDragonWilson, and even surfing might’ve been mentioned. We did forget to blast #FlatEarthers but at least I got my #RoundEarthShill shirt. #TwoBaldBrothers
Have you ever had #BloodMicroscopy analysis done on yourself or loved ones? Your health, disease markers, inflammation, bacteria levels, viruses, energy, hydration, allergens, etc can all be clearly seen and potentially diagnosed with the help of one of these tests. @kalanimiller and I had them done today. Here is my blood tested two ways. The first three are a dried blood blot test which can tell you current and past health issues. 4-6 pics give you an idea of how to decipher what the pictures are showing. Pic 7 is wet blood. My protein/amino acid levels are a bit low due to not properly assimilating my foods, possibly because of a lack of digestive enzymes. Also my red blood cells are a bit deflated showing I could be more oxygenated and hydrated. Inflammation markers are low. The dried blood shows some former inflammation, possibly chronic in the past but now under control, in the colon/stomach/prostate area. • • • It’s fascinating looking into your blood health magnified 600X or more. It reminds me of looking into outer space at stars and planets and galaxies and ufos all in this finely orchestrated configuration. Find a good microscopist who can evaluate and refer you to someone who’ll help right the wrongs your blood is showing you. It might save your life. ✌🏽☠️😷💉💊🅰️
Scary storm hitting Florida Panhandle/#PanamaCityBeach. Hope everyone took cover and no casualties happen. 🙏🏽
I love new socks. When I was a kid, I used the same socks over and over, day after day for school without washing them. I don’t think my mom even knew. They were stinky and dirty. I was always embarrassed to take em off and have smelly feet. I would look in my drawer wishing I had more socks. A couple times we went to get me new shoes and I would take off what I was wearing and they were full of sand and dirt from playing all day and it would spill all over the floor. Thanks for the socks @stancesocks. Much appreciated for clearing that up for me. The little things in life. Anyone got a similar memory?
#Scotland is amazing. I love this place.