Never mind the bollocks, here’s the surf porn. Thank you JBay!
Few things are more magical than the sunrises here in JBay. Here’s a collection of my favorite images produced before 7:30am from the past week or so. Alarm is set for a big day tomorrow, excited to be on the beach at first light ready for the show! 🌄
A quick selection of Speed Blurs from this week. The long groomed walls of JBay allows for the surfers to go so damn fast, its always mind blowing to me. Stopping the motion with fast shutter speeds doesn’t really capture the speed and smoothness on display every day. I end up shooting more speed blurs here than any other place, but really enjoy how it can make for some unique looks - reminds me of impressionist paintings. The way the surfers shadows become frozen against the moving spray ends up being my favorite part.
Insta Hiatus Update: been spending some time off the grid and Gram. Recharging batteries and relighting fires. Living the good life, and couldn’t be happier to be back to Africa. Hands down best trip of my life. Back to surfing in a few days. 🤗
A view all too rare - a woman featured on the cover of a surfing mag without it having to be a special “girls issue”. Bravo @surfinglife for breaking the mold, and giving this photo a proper home based on its own merit. Well deserved @xococoho and thank you @surfinglife for all your continued support!!
Bali, you are a real treat. Sad to have to leave tomorrow but thankful for the opportunity to come visit this magic kingdom. Some moments from the past 10 days
Pre-sunrise under the lights in Bali, with @rissmoore10. Excited to be headed back for more.
In early 2005, I burned a CD-R of my favorite photos from some recent surf trips and a short note introducing myself, addressed to Larry Flame Moore at Surfing Magazine, and mailed it off to California. A week or so later I received an email from Flame; filled with compliments, honest critiques and more than anything encouragement to keep shooting and keep sending photos. Shortly after, Flame moved on from Surfing Magazine and quickly moved on from this world. Although that was my only meaningful interaction with him personally, it will always stick with me as a major stepping stone towards me continuing my passion for photography and surfing. . . In 2013 I submitted a 3 minute slideshow, filled with my 100 best images, and again sent it over to the Surfing Magazine office in California for the Follow the Light Grant. Fast forward a few weeks and I was selected as a finalist for the 2013 grant and flew to California by myself, not knowing many people nor what to expect. When it was announced I was chosen as the Grant Recipient for that year, it was a confusing feeling. Excitement, nervousness, but now also filled with a sense of responsibility that I not let down the people who had put their faith in me that I could continue the tradition of exceptional photographers whom had won the grant the previous 6 years. That feeling of encouragement mixed with responsibility sticks with me to this day. Its one of the biggest motivators for me to do my best each and every day I’m out shooting surfing. . . The Follow the Light foundation grant is open for entries right now, til May 31. If you’re interested in surf photography, I implore you look into it. Whether you feel like you have what it takes to win, or you just want to reach out to the wonderful people running the foundation for advice and critiques I recommend everyone get involved in some way. If it weren’t for the grant, the foundation, and all the support I received as a result of entering, there is no chance I’d be still following my passion and pursuing my dream jobs today. Thank you to all involved, it means more to me than I’d ever be able to explain. . Here’s 10 of those 100 images.
Dear Mom, today was the first day back at school and it went really well! I was excited to see everyone and all the other kids were super nice to me. At first I was a little nervous to be back, but now I can’t wait to see what happens tomorrow! Love, Trevor. 🤓 🍎 🥰
When it’s your birthday and you drop an insane 10 minute video edit on the same day. Love your fire @koloheandino22 💪🥳
The perils of taking off behind the rock with impending backwash.
Navigating humpday like...
Yes, this is from a few years ago. I still like it 🤷🏻♂️
Soon, back to board shorts and stiff offshores 🙌 🐨
And now, back to our regularly scheduled programming. 📸 🏄🏼
Seems like its become annual habit for me to hermit away from social media for Jan and Feb, only to return with promises to post more in the immediate future. I’ve had a lot going on in my personal life, and while I would check in here to make sure the world was still spinning, I’ve been physically and emotionally drained and unable to muster the inspiration to post. Last week I took a trip to Barbados with my family - vacation, decompress, break the cycle, and enjoy life. I hadn’t touched a camera in two months, but went into the trip aiming to force myself to shoot a bit. It took me a few days of observing before I shot a frame - but I finally found inspiration. Every evening just before sunset, in front of our house, I’d hear this rhythmic slapping. There was a man, around my age, standing by the waters edge with a soccer ball, bouncing it to himself, off his foot, head, chest. Just him, the ball, the beach, and the sunset. I said hello one night, and he gave me a smile, but I could tell he was partially blind and didn’t want to be bothered, so I just watched. I wondered if perhaps he had a lot going on in his life too, and didn’t want to talk, but rather just enjoy a peaceful moment of solitude, away from whatever else awaits him after the sun sets behind the sea. I wanted to remember the moment, and the introspection it evoked in me; so I grabbed my camera, shot a few frames, and went on my way. Surely not my best work photographically, but a nice personal moment and I felt like it would be a good story to share to break the ice from being away for a while. I’m grateful I get to share images with an audience, share my experiences, and beyond all am grateful for my friends and family that have been there to support me during tough times. Thank you all, and as always, I promise to try a little harder to post more in the coming weeks.
#tbtbt thinking back on some playful Backdoor sessions and psyched to see what comes to Hawaii later this week. Ps. Winds please chill out
It’s my brother @radicalsquirrel birthday!! Here’s to another year of fruitful adventuring!!
We've been spoiled with lefts this year, ready for some rights!
Looking like plenty more of these to come this week 🙃
Winter in Hawaii.... pretty prettttty good.
Pretty sure this guy has been in the water every single time I've checked the waves so far this winter. Been putting on one hell of a show every session too - airs so big he flies out of frame
Thankful to have this fearless woman in my life. Whether it be standing on a cliff for a photo (afraid of heights), trusting my Pad Thai doesn’t have peanuts (she’s deathly allergic), or building a life that intertwines with mine (I sure don’t make it easy). Her deep loving heart, and embrace for me - as I am - I cherish every day. To the rest of the Mutants at Table 9, don’t give up - if I can get this lucky, theres hope for us all. . . Take a second between refreshing fantasy scores today and reflect upon the good people in your life, and how lucky all of us reading this on a smartphone really are. It feels pretty good.
Rumor has it, not long now til we see this on the North Shore
... though the trade winds do come with some positive results
Happy Birthday @julian_wilson !! Wishing you some more moments like this soon! 🎂 🎈
It’s not all cameras all the time, sometimes I actually get to surf! Today, I'm taking over the @awayco_ Instagram account to share my experience at @surferslodgepeniche in Portugal! Got a Hypto Krypto that handled these long walls and the sketchy detonators at Nazaré. Go check it out on @awayco_ 's page and their story!
C’mon sleepy beast, time to wake up
This hurricane hitting Portugal right now is triggering some flashbacks to last year. Hope to see some more of these 💣!
To stall, or to bottom turn?
Its not the size of your water craft but how you plane it that matters
Buncha Johnny Come Latelys
Could go for some green sandy barrels right about now
Ramps at wine hour 🇫🇷 🍷
Left // Right
Don't be there.
That slow walk backwards when you realize you went in too early
The best backdrop with the biggest air sections
Heres to flying into your 30's. Happy Birthday Wilko!
When we roll up to a spot and the waves are firing, I love pretending like I'm not seeing anything good. "You're tripping, its terrible out there. Show me one rideable wave." @jordysmith88 had a giddy reply this day
Whenever I tell people I’m heading to France for surf, they’re often shocked to hear how popular surfing is there. Empty waves like this are usually pretty rare on this stretch of beach. #themoreyouknow🌈